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Greg Glendell

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Greg Glendell last won the day on July 2 2014

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About Greg Glendell

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  1. Hi Fokls! Just had the email (from Niel?) re site's resurrection. We've moved, with all the birds! to near Bridgwater. I've taken up horse riding again and done about 5500 miles over the past 4 years, with Harry/horse. Have greys and Amazons here still, plus Mr Big, the Meyers with his massive ego! I'm still selling my 'number one best selling parrot book' and doing some talks to students and vets etc. But I'm semi retired now and spending quite a bit of time in the saddle here on the Quantock Hills!
  2. Hi Fabby, Please do not even think of having a bird's wings clipped. Birds need to fly in order to remain healthy and fit. Indeed you should be encouraging them to fly. You can teach most birds to fly to and from you on a verbal request, using rewards during the training of this. Best wishes, Greg.
  3. I've kept parrots for nearly 30 years and never had any intention or desire of clipping any one of them, anymore than I would keep a dog tied up for its 'safety' or to prevent escape etc. There are no 'pros' for a bird to have its main escape reflex function denied it. There are only cons; including severe behavioural issues at risk. The main points often missed in wing-clipping discussions are moulting sequence of parrots' wings; and the simple task of teaching your bird to fly to and from you and other places, for normal daily exercise and real *safety*.
  4. Yes, as Rubytoo says, wingspan is a good basis for estimating minimum cage size. There is often confusion with bird keepers re. wingspan with winglength, but the two are very different measurments. Winglength is measured from the wrist joint to the tip of the longest primary; in an Af grey, or B-f Amazon, this is about 9 inches or 23cms. Winglength is used byornithologists as a standard measurement. But *wingspan* is the measurement of the bird's outstretched wings as when it is flying. In the same species /Greys B-f Amazon, this measurement is about 28 inches/ 70cms. In short-tailed birds the wingspan is always more than twice the bird's body length, and is a much better guide to minimum cage size. Cockatiels and even a little meyers parrot have a wingspan of about 16 inches/40cms. I would go for a cage where all dimensions exceed the wingspan, and two of these dimensions are more than twice the wingspan; this should alllow the bird to flap its wings freely in the cage. But all birds should be out for several hours each day as well so that they can fly. Greg.
  5. I went to this year's event and had a stall there selling my books. I met a few folks who are on this Forum as well. I thought the day went quite well, perhaps not as big as last years event, but still well worth going to. Did anyone else go? Any thoughts on what you thought of it? Was admision charge to high for you? What about the talks you might have heard while there? What does everyone think of a show where, at last there are no birds for sale, just dry goods and some good info? Greg Glendell
  6. It is clear from Birdybeak's contributions that s/he is not aware of most of the salient facts regarding June's apparent 'abilities' to care for many parrots that were given to her and to Parrotcare. The refusal to provide basic veterinary care to suffering birds is without excuse. Whether there was some psychological reason for not offering birds veterinary care, or whether this was due to a lack of funds; or such funds were spent on other things not to do with the birds, I cannot yet say. But it remains a requirement under the AWA that anyone in charge of an animal *must* provide for its care to relieve its suffering. Failure to do so increases the suffering the animal will experience. I remain of the view that many people were conned by what June *said* she was doing, and what she actually *did do*. The directors/trustees of a charity are supposed to *know* what is going on; that is the reason for their *being* Trustees, so as to correct any errors promptly. I hope other trustees and directors of other animal welfare/sanctuaries/rescue groups are reading these posts. Many such places are poorly run and lack a professional ethos. This impinges on the quality of care the birds recieve. Yes, I think it would be best if this went to court then, via the media, a wider public would be aware of the kinds of things which do go on in some animal welfare 'charities'. I would welcome the opportuity to corroborate the facts as they have been presented to me by those who did manage to save at least some of the birds from June's 'care' and get them to a vet for the treatment that had been denied them, sometimes for years. For the birds, Greg Glendell
  7. Hi Blee, If the diet is not good, you can always improve things immediately by putting a multivitamin and mineral supplement in her water. This should include vitamin D3 and calcium. The high fat diet can affect their ability to use vitamin A. It takes several weeks or even *months* to change a bird's diet, so keep up with it, at least until the new year. Make sure to appear tyo eat these things yourself, in front of her to get her interest; do this out of sight of gthe casge at first, only near the cage later. She will probably eat *anything* that is offered warm and is a mushy consistency, so try warmed, cooked veg like sweet potato, carrots, broccoli etc.
  8. Hi Superrrobin, Like most parrots Quakers are highly social species and are not adapted to being ontheir own. They live in huge flocks and breed colonially. So yes, get some more! Maybe try to find some 'unwanted' ones. They should be ok together if you have a *large* cage, otherwise house them side by side in their own cages when you are not there to supervise them. Good luck!
  9. Yes, June I agree with what you Googled in your post of #51. I have read that info and other sources myself. As I said before, brood parastic spp probably do not imprint, and about 1% of bird species are brood parasitic, such as some spp of cuckoo, weaver birds and cowbirds. I assume, these spp know their own species by instinct, not learning. But the text you quote, doesn't say that anyone actually has researched the abilty of 'reversal' in imprinting in birds. So, yes, there *may* be some flexibilty in social and sexual imprinting and this is most likely to be seen in non altricial species; this is what Bateson seems to think, and he may well be right. These could include some passerines and perhaps parrots, (though I doubt raptors) but I know of no data which has ever shown reversal of imprinting (from a mal-imprinted bird to its own species), post the sensitive period. And then you write; "Many breeders have (hand-reared) human-imprinted birds that breed. But this is an oxymoron; and we really should not be peddling any more parrot myths -there's too many of them already. If a bird *is* mal-imprinted on another species, it cannot *by definition of what imprinting means* breed with its own species. Now if a hand-reared bird is not 'hand-reared' until well after its eyes open, then it may not imprint on its human feeder; it will *already* have imprinted on the parent birds who fed it. The key issue is the *sensitive period* for imprinting. After this sensitive period has passed in neonates; then, the research tells us its effects are either impossible or unproven regarding reversal. So, yes, behaviour is 'flexible' but it has *limits*. I have a grey here who was kept locked in a cage for 17 years and he did *not* self-pluck. I do not know why, but most greys kept like that, on their own, would self-harm. He's the exception! So, just as someone might keep a parrot in a cage for 20 years and it doesn't self-harm, doesnt mean that we can 'get away' with such a practice and recommend caging of birds as 'acceptable' or humane. Any bird species adapted to imprinting, (any of the 99% of bird spp) *is*, almost certainly going to imprint on those who feed it as a neonate. The likely behavioural effects of mal-imprinting are well known. So, the default/fail-safe practice would simply be to ensure any hand-reared bird is *not* subjected to being mal-imprinted. This is done by avoiding visual human contact and giving the bird visual contact with its own species and/or a mock-up puppet of same. This is a subject I have looked into, and despite your comment about you being more 'hands on' than me, I have been helping a range of sick and injured bird spp since the 1960s, from corvids and pigeons to parrots and cranes. I will treat Derek's comment with the 'respect' it deserves. Again, attacking the person rather than addressing the subject is revealling. I do hope a much more enlightened view of birds and their real needs will grow and will actually be *used* in bird keeping. It is certainly better for us to use scientific sources wherever we can, and most of these lie within ornithology, rather than bird keeping. The later still relies too heavily on anecdote. Many more vets are much better informed about behavioural issues now than a few years ago. Here's what Dr Katherine Macmillan BVSc (Hons) MACVSc (Veterinary Behaviour) has to say on this subject: "Avoid [ as pets] 'hand-reared' animals: Young, hand-reared animals appear more confident and friendly towards people than their naturally-reared counterparts, making them very appealing choices as pets. For this reason hand-rearing is used as a strategy for some species, particularly birds, to ensure that they bond more strongly to people. Unfortunately, if animals are hand reared in the absence of their own kind, their learning is such that their brain ‘locks in’ that they are part of the human species when they are still young, leading to behavioural changes that are largely irreversible. This is referred to as mal-imprinting. The animal is then destined to suffer because it can no longer relate to its own kind and *neither* can it relate and communicate effectively with humans due to the obvious physical and mental differences. The resulting frustration and confusion makes behavioural problems almost inevitable. " *********************************************** Ends. "Lots of people talk to animals... Not very many listen, though... That's the problem". Benjamin Hoff
  10. Hello Tez, You wrote: "greg you say as i have put above if imprinted the will sexual bond to humans not birds i would just like to say i have 3 breeding pairs of amazons all handreared all ex pets and they all have breed" ************************ Okay, if you are saying that you have male birds who never recieved any parental care as neonates and were raised/fed solely by humans from hatching to fledging, and they are *not* imprinted onto humans, you should publish this in a scientific journal. I think it would be a first! Please, June; *all* of my contributions, including the issue of mal-imprinting of neonates are directed to bird welfare. Of course people are free to disagree with what I say, but for data on imprinting I am merely using scientific sources from Lorenze to Bateson; these are not my 'views' they are the facts as have been determined by scientific investigation, since the 1930s, rather than anecdote. I simply tend to agree with them, and I feel, on grounds of bird welfare, we should make use of the proven scientifically-based information available to us rather than relying on 'informal'/ anecdotal sources. So, of course sometimes we have to 'hand-rear' a bird. But avoiding mal-imprinting while doing so, would benifit the bird for the rest of its hopefully very long life. Now if anyone has any evidence that any birds (other than brood parasitic spp) are *not* subjected to imprinting as a neonates, then let us know...
  11. jebirds says: "Now the idea of me feeding this baby with a hand puppet and hiding from view until such time as it is introduced to other birds when it will suddenly "see" me for the first time is quite frankly silly, this is not a Crane or Condor or bird that is going to be released back into the wild, ( which is the reason why these birds are not human imprinted) If he lives he is going to be a much loved pet bird like the ones that you once raised and sold Greg." ************************* This is totally false. I have never sold any bird in my life; I do not see them as items of merchandise, as I have stated many times before. I would ask that you retract that statement. I have never raised neonates, though I have part raised some birds prior to fledging, including native species who were released. A basic understanding of avian imprinting and the sensitive period for this (which occurs soon after an bird's eyes open) tells us that the baby bird *will* imprint on the bird, human or object which feeds it. Initially it will show purely affiliate behaviours towards the animal/object it is imprinted on. But once the bird is sexually mature it will show courtship behaviours to that on which it is imprinted, and males esp. may show aggression to third parties who may be seen as a threat to the bird's sexual proclivities. Captive raised birds are best imprinted on their *own* species. Where they are destined to be 'pets', then some time should be taken to tame them, using positive reinforcment etc. rather than have them mal-imprinted and therefore sexually frustrated for life, as is so common with many 'pet' parrots.
  12. As I have said before, *of course* the bird (any bird) should be hand-reared if the parents cannot/will not raise it. That is not the issue. However, if it is allowed to see only humans during the sensitive period of imprinting, it *will* imprint onto humans and the effects of this will begin to show at about 2 years of age. This could be avoided if suitable action is taken before the bird's eyes begin to open...
  13. Hmmm... I have found some of this thread a bit difficult to follow. I will assume 'congenial' liver disease actually means congenital liver disease. If it was 'congenial' it wouldn't be a problem! A bird's 'stomach' is not really visible unless you scan/x-ray the bird. So again I'll assume by stomach we are meaning the crop. Little if any digestion takes place in the crop; this is merely a storage bag, from where the food passes into the proventriculus and later the gizzard for digestion. Fingers crossed for this little one...
  14. Hi again, Yes, some really good points there from Mcatee as well. If you also had a roosting box in the *shelter* that would be a further incentive for them to go in there as well. But they might breed, but you can always take the real eggs away and supply dummy/pigeon eggs for her to 'incubate' for 28 days.
  15. Hi Tabby, It doesn't work like that re. their beginning to 'like' you and trust you; much depends on what they might have been through in the past. I too have been given two O wings exactly like this; they have a real fear of humans. By their behaviour, and like yours, they were wild caught as adults, so they have a *learnt* fear of humans; this will have been taught them by their flock/parents. There's a whole list of things I would suggest you do; hope this is ok. 1. The lining of the shed is wood; they can break out of this if they want; and rats can break in. Line this with mesh; use at least 14 gauge 1 inch square. 2. Make sure you understand about parrots roosting behaviour, then you will be able to get them in the shelter by default. During dusk, birds move to *high perches* and move *towards* light. If the shelter is both dark, and has no perches higher than those in the flight, the birds will not have any incentive to enter it. They remain outside because that is where the *light* is and the 'open' high perches. The temperature is not a factor for them as they have no behavioural repertoire to understand 'cold' as there is no 'cold' where they come from. 3. Light the shed with a bulb equivalent to 150 watts tungsten/25 watts flourescent. Have this come on 30 mins before dusk on a timer; have it go off 30 mins *after* it become dark outside. Have a means of closing off the shelter from *outside* the aviary, so once they are in, they cannot come back out. Most birds will learn to use a cat-flap type arrangement, and you can use a locking bar in the evening, so this swings one way only, to let them in, but stops them coming back out. This is what I have for greys and Amazons. Without a bright light in the shelter they have no incentive to think of going in there esp. at dusk. 4. Do not provide any food, at any time in the outdoor section; other than a few treats in a food bowl. 5. Lower some of the outdoor perches a little bit. Make sure the roosting perches in the shed are *higher* that those in the flight. 6. Have an avian vet repair the damaged wing by imping on donor feathers. This will restore flight immediately. A bird needs to have 6 primaries to be able to gain height. I can send these to your vet and they are free. With these changes you will be able to give them a better life. Let me know if you need more help. Best of luck!
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