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hoppaz

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About hoppaz

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  1. Sorted I contacted Avian ID who passed my number on to the Breeder who called me back.
  2. Hi, We are trying to trace the breeder for our 4 year old eclectus. The initials on his ring are "SAB" if anyone can help it would be appreciated? We just want to trace a bit of his history. Many thanks Paul
  3. Just received these from Rob Harvey. I have been using compact bulbs for UV but as the strip lamps are cheaper to buy (half the price) I thought (in the long run) it would be better to change over to controller and strip lighting. Recevied them today and hooked them up (both match in terms of power/wattage) but the bulb does not fire up. Everything is contected correctly and I have even changed the 3a fuse. No change. Only items left to fault are: Controller Bulb Starter Now does anyone who owns one of these know if the controller is supposed to make some sort of noise/hum? Mine is doing nothing at the moment. Also how easy is it for the bulbs to be damaged? My order was packaged well but the box was only big enough to fit the bulb diagnally in with the packaging bit that hangs on the shop hooks had been bent so it could fit inside the box. If anyone could help me with these questions it with help me conclude which part is faulty. Many thanks in advance.
  4. Sunflower seeds are very fatty and can cause liver damage. Liver damage in birds can possibly down to two things, the first is diet and the second could be hereditary . I have a Meyers which shows no sign of liver damage yet but to decrease the chances of it happening you could give your birds less sunflower seeds. As there will be a limited number of breeding birds in the UK then the likelihood is that the gene pool is very small so any genetic faults are likely to be carried on into captive birds. When you think of the Darwin theory in the wild a bird with liver disease is likely to die young so the chances of it breeding (and making genetically faulted offspring) is lower than those birds who have no genetic faults. So this is natures way of cleansing the gene pool. ...Just my thoughts
  5. These may be daft suggestions but your description suggests that your holiday (a change from normal routine) triggered it. Might i suggest getting some new toys or even changing the ones around in the cage. Some may see this as a bad idea (more change) but in the wild CAGs don't sit in the same tree / place all of their life and therefore used to change. In fact they even do a bit of searching for those palm trees coz they love those nuts! My CAG now and again goes through a period (appears to be board) where she grooms herself a lot (doesn't pluck luckily) rather than play. This happens every 8 months or so, so I simply buy her new toys. I have also started putting in non-dyed egg boxes and toilet/kitchen roll tubes which she loves to destroy. Basically try anthing that will detract from the plucking. Alternatively, have you seen an avian vet? Sometimes vitamin / mineral deficiancies can bring on plucking (unlikely as the trigger seems to have been your holiday). Nevertheless it might be worth getting a checkup
  6. Here are my thoughts on this topic which I put in a sticky in the help wanted forum... Hi, i noticed your sticky on "ASPERGILLOSIS" so thought I would send you my experiences (I have posted this on another parrot forum and copied it below) which may help other members. I can't add it to the sticky as it is locked.... Just thought I would give my views / experience on this one. Aflatoxins can be present in all types of nuts. It is an naturally occuring bacterial carcinogen (sp.) that grows inside nuts (whether they be sunflowers, wallnuts, almonds or monkey nuts). I used to work for a company that imported sacks of nuts, put them into mixes and package them up for the major supermarket chains to sell for xmas. We did aflatoxin tests on the nuts to ensure the levels were in the permitted range. Therefore I would always go for human grade nuts / feed as they will (by law) have been tested to ensure the aflatoxin levels are in the permitted range. The only way I could see monkey nuts being worse than any other is the fact they break and dust clouds are released which may enter the lungs of a bird and cause infection. However what I would also add is that the dust from other seed will be present in almost all seed mixes is also likely to be inhaled whilst the bird is fishing about in the seed bowl so IMO opinion monkey nuts are no better of worse than other nuts or seed. Those who wish to take extra caution may buy roasted nuts as the roasting process kills bacteria. This is futher info taken from later in the thread... I can't actually remember the permitted level (it was 10 years ago when I tested them on a uni work placement). We had to take selected nuts out of each sack (the sacks were from the same crop and kept in the same condition so the theory was if one nut showed excessive levels the entire bag would) and grind them up and put some special solution into it which changed colour and we compared the colour to a shade chart to see if it was in the permitted level. There were more exact ways to do do the test with more expensive equipment but most of the time the colour was in the low range and I can't honestly recall having one test that showed excessive levels or anywhere near the max. permitted level. If i recall correctly yes the storage is an issue but the aflatoxins increase at their most potent rate during the growth of the seed/nut. In a dry state yes aflatoxins are safe in heat (but they would not grow)but in a nut there is moisture / oil which is why they can grow so roasting the aflatoxins in these conditions does have an effect i was lead to believe. Check out... http://www.aflatoxin.info/aflatoxin.asp for more info (I double checked to make sure I was correct). I understand that birds tolerances to aflatoxins might not be the same as humans but the levels we found in human grade nuts and seeds were so low (and remember it is a NATURALLY occuring bateria in nuts and seeds to it wont be erridaticated), that these would be the best choice to give to birds. Also human grade stuff will be kept and transported in better conditions than non human grade stuff (which may prevent aflatoxin growth as well). Anyway my main point is that monkey nuts are not the only culprit which people should remember. ... So basically if you feed your bird ANY type of nut from almonds to even palm nuts there is a chance they may contain aflatoxins. Monkey nuts have just been labelled (wrongly IMO) as the culprit.
  7. Once she matures she will get a yellow "lick" of paint on the top of her head and her eyes will go like the photo in my photobucket... http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff316/hoppaz/
  8. I have a Meyers parrot who is about four years old now. He was hand reared but left in a cage for the first year of his life in a pet shop (so went a bit backwards). I would not worry too much about the wing clipping as Meyers, like Senegal’s are excellent acrobats (tree dwelling in the wild) so if nothing else you are encouraging your bird to work on these climbing skills now which if you think about it as the bird will spend a lot of time in a cage is probably a better characteristic to perfect. Another characteristics of these birds is that they are very outgoing and curious once they are comfortable with their environment. In fact I actually had to have my Meyers wing clipped to curb his aggression as he wanted to be the flock leader. He is fine now (his flight feathers have grown back). Despite having to have his wings clipped he’s is a very good flyer. As I already said he spent a year in a small cage without developing his flying skills. He's even managed to escape and spend a night in the wild without problem - luckily our neighbours spotted him flying about their garden and a bit of food encouragement got him back in his cage. Offering favourite treats by hand will encourage the bird to grow to trust you. This may takes weeks but eventually I am sure the bird will not see you as a threat and start taking the food from you.
  9. Do you use a word command like "up" and say this when he steps up? If not he might just be getting confused and aggressive about what to do when your daughter approaches him as opposed to you (he has clearly bonded with you and feels safe around you). Start using the up command everytime you pick him up he/she will start to associate the "up" command with step-up rather than just seeing "the finger" of the person he/she has bonded with which allows them to get closer. I did have a similar problem with a h/r cockateil and my partner (when the teil was bonded to me and wouldnt go to her). The up command worked a treat.
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