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DrM

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DrM last won the day on June 13 2014

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About DrM

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  1. I honestly don't see any pro's at all when it comes to wing clipping. (Yes, there might be very special cases where clipping may be the least bad option, but I'm talking in general here.) Clipping to prevent escape, as greyeyes says, only provides a false sense of security, which might even end up increasing the risk of escape. And if the bird does get out, it will be less able to fend for itself. In almost every other respect too, it is debatable at best whether any safety is gained by clipping wings. Birds are plenty able to get themselves in trouble also with clipped wings, and again may be less able to handle it when they do. And they will be at greater risk of injuries due to, e.g., falls. If you are worried about the safety of your bird around the house, you should take a good look at your house rather than the bird. Making sure birds can't get to open windows, household chemicals and so on is one of the responsibilities one takes on by acquiring a bird.
  2. DrM

    What is the best food for parrot ?

    There's really no one-size-fits-all answer to that question, but a varied diet with some fresh vegetables, soaked and sprouted seeds and pulses, a small amount of fruit, and occasional nuts as treats ought to be a good start with most parrots. Combine with a good pelleted feed, and you're on your way. Some species have more specific requirements than others, and there are always variations between individuals. The most common mistake is feeding too much (dry) seed, which is generally too rich a diet for a bird that does not get the amount of exercise it would in the wild. Most introductory books on parrot keeping will give some basics about diet, e.g. the books by Greg Glendell.
  3. DrM

    Bleeding

    Where is the bleeding coming from? Has it stopped? Is the bird eating normally? Is it showing any signs of listlessness? Most likely it is not a problem and the wound will heal (there are antiseptic creams you can apply), but if the bird is showing any signs of weakness, or if the bleeding persists, then get the bird to a vet. Also, wounds in certain locations (e.g. feet) seem more likely to develop problematic infections and may need preventative care. Again, ask your avian vet.
  4. Caron-j, that is all well and good. All I am saying is that it is sometimes easy to get carried away in discussions that evoke a strong emotional response, and that this is, in fact, a public forum. One should be aware of all the various potential problems with "trial by forum", one of which is that there may (or may not) be an impact on legal proceedings.
  5. Speaking as someone not involved, my answer is that no, it is not really possible to get a very clear picture. I would also like to take the opportunity to gently remind everyone of the dangers of "trial by forum" (a.k.a. "trial by Facebook" or "trial by social media"): http://thatsnonsense.com/blog/trial-by-facebook-dangerous-trends/ In particular, this passage is applicable: "Legal influences. Particularly viral posts about real cases have the potential to influence legal proceedings. So if charges are ever bought against guilty parties, damaging and libelous posts can make it difficult to prosecute." I believe many of us are interested in knowing what has actually transpired, and in particular we are concerned about the welfare of the birds involved. If this mess may end in a court case, we should however take care not to inadvertently influence any legal proceedings. (Disclaimer: I am not trained in law and nothing in this post constitutes legal advice. I have had no dealings at all with Parrotcare. I am not in a position to have any opinion regarding guilt -- moral, legal, or otherwise -- regarding any party involved.)
  6. DrM

    new baby grey

    As for Sid finding his feet, I would not worry too much about that. Our African grey, who is now 10 months old, was about the clumsiest creature I've seen for the first weeks/months she was with us, but has been gaining agility and balance at an amazing pace. What you can to if he seems to be having trouble getting around the cage because he can't quite grip the bars is to provide beak- and footholds by tying suitable ropes around them in strategic places (just make sure that it is rope he can chew safely and keep an eye out for any loops or lose strings that could catch his toes). Also if he falls a lot, you can pad the cage bottom with towels and put layers of newspaper on top to catch droppings, dropped food etc.
  7. I'm going to assume that dangerous animal means an animal that one might be somewhat likely to keep as a pet and that is poisonous enough (or otherwise likely) to cause death or grave bodily harm, even when well managed and under normal circumstances. While I appreciate Greg's point about large cockatoos and macaws -- and while any dog could inflict very serious injuries, and if not kept right could be considered outright dangerous -- it seems to me that that is not what was meant in the original question. Given that, my answer is a quite definite no, I would not keep such an animal. I have some appreciation for snakes, spiders, scorpions etcetera, but would not want to keep a poisonous species in my home. I would also hesitate to keep large constrictors. Not only do I not want to be around a pet that could kill me with one bite, I would also not want to run the risk of such an animal escaping from my care.
  8. I saw that you don't really want a cage with a top that opens. In the interest of full disclosure I should probably add that the San Remo does have that. However you don't need to use it, and you can tie it firmly shut if you're worried. You can try to find out if it also comes in a version without the opening top. We have never noticed any potential problems with ours.
  9. Fantastic news! I'm very happy for you. Thanks for letting us know!
  10. The Haiti Plus has bar spacing almost as large as the Hacienda (2.2 cm v. 2.5 cm according to specs), which is too large for a small conure. We have a Montana San Remo (http://shop.parrotcare.com/montana-san-remo-42-p.asp) that we used for our GCC when he was still with us, and is now inhabited by our Meyer's parrot. I would not go for anything smaller, even for a small bird, but you'll note that it is actually wider (86 cm) than some larger cages. Some cages advertised as large actually don't give the bird that much space in either horizontal direction. The non-aluminium Kings cage looks nice too. Personally I'd not care much about playpen tops (apparently there are some that are dangerous, so you might want to do some research), preferring to have a playstand away from the cage, but I guess that's mostly personal preference.
  11. Another suggestion might be a Meyer's parrot. They're not much bigger than the GCC's and seem generally sweet-natured. I'd hesitate to generalise from our sample of one still rather young Meyer's (one year old), but she is certainly the bird that comes to mind when someone wants"small and gentle".
  12. DrM

    Hello!

    That would depend on what type of ring it is. If it is a closed ring, that would have been put on the leg by the breeder when the bird was a very young chick. (That's the point of closed rings: they go on the bird soon after hatching and can't be changed afterwards.) If so, this is good news for you, as the ring should identify the breeder. This may still take some detective work to decipher, but in principle the information should be there. And it would also prove that the bird was bred in captivity. If it is an open ring, that could have been put on at any time, but may still have useful information. And yes, trying to trace the previous owners might be a good idea. The salmon-crested cockatoo is on the CITES Appendix I, so a certificate is needed for trade (and trade with wild-caught birds is illegal).
  13. I just voted 'yes'. This comes with a bunch of caveats and reservations, but those are of a practical nature rather than a matter of principle. I would need to be convinced that the breeding programme is well-managed, effective, that good care is taken of the birds, and so on. Thing other people have touched on in the thread. Ideally, I would like to remain the owner of the bird (like a fostering agreement of some sort), both to keep a bond with the bird, and, if things go all pear-shaped, to be able to pull my bird out and give it to another programme/take care of it myself/whatever might be appropriate depending on circumstances. But on the matter of principle, if I had a bird of a species in such grave danger (but still with some half-reasonable hope that a rescue programme could be effective), I strongly believe I would give it up to conservation efforts.
  14. Greg, I was wondering: as I understand it, the problem with high-fat foods is that the bird in a domestic setting will not get enough exercise to burn off all the energy and will therefore become overweight, just as sedate humans on high-energy diets. Of course, carbohydrates (sugars) are a source of energy just as fat, and as far as weight control in humans is concerned the relevant equation really is calories in minus calories out. It doesn't matter whether these calories come from fats or carbohydrates. Does the same basic equation not hold for birds too? If so, an excess of energy from carbohydrate-rich foods would be as bad as excess energy from fat (of course there may be other nutritional considerations, but that's not what I'm discussing here). Is it simply the case that the carbohydrate-rich foods we give our parrots (mainly fresh fruit like grapes etc.) are not energy-dense enough that the bird can eat too much of them? (Unlike humans who can easily get an excess of calories from carbohydrates as well as from fat.) This may be something of an academic point, but I am just curious about the mechanism involved.
  15. Hi anz3001, You could ask the vet about having her feathers repaired using donor feathers. That would probably be my number one option, as that would hopefully restore flight to the bird and she will not miss out on her learning period. Finding donor feathers might prove difficult, but you may start by asking around this forum. As for when to go for the vet visit, I'd say give it a few days, but not much longer than that. If there is anything amiss, you want to know about it as soon as possible after all. We brought our baby grey home on a Saturday and went for the vet check-up the following Friday.
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