ForumParrakeets
Advice wanted about breeding Bourke's Parrakeets - please email Fisksf4@aol.com
Thank you.
Help and advice given on Lineolated Parrakeets by Ron Lewis, his email address
is: ronlewis@btinternet.com
click here to see Ron's article on this page
Here are some articles written by one of the UK's top parrakeet breeders, Jim Hayward
The Barraband Parrakeet, The
Derbyan Parrakeet, and In Support of Colour Varieties
The Barraband Parrakeet
SPECIES: Barraband's Parrakeets (Polytelis swainsoni)
ORIGINAL HOMELAND: Two limited ranges in New South Wales and Victoria.
NATURAL HABITAT: They mostly prefer to live where trees line the banks of
waterways, though forested areas are acceptable. Though they take food from
the ground, their liking for blossom and nectar causes them to wander in search
of flowering Eucalyptus.
STATUS IN THE WILD: Thought at one time to be on the decrease, the spread
of agriculture, and the increase in irrigation which this requires, seems
to have been of benefit to this species.
STATUS IN AVICULTURE: A deservedly ever popular and long established species
in British aviculture; not as plentiful as in previous decades.
LEVEL OF KEEPER'S EXPERIENCE: The keeping and breeding of any of the commonest
Australian Parrakeets should provide sufficient experience for the general
management of the Barraband.
HARDINESS: Sufficiently hardy to withstand wintering out with just an open
fronted shelter in all but the most exposed areas and northerly parts of the
British Isles.
TYPE OF ACCOMMODATION: Though they will thrive and breed in aviaries measuring
only 9ft in length, these swift flying birds are at their best in an enclosure
of l8ft or longer. They are not destructive to wood or wire mesh.
TYPE OF DIET: All they need is a standard parrakeet mixture (sunflower, safflower,
canary mixture, millet, and millet sprays), greenfood (the usual seeding grasses
and plants) and some chopped fruit and vegetable mixture. Bread and milk and/or
canary rearing food can be offered and is especially useful when the birds
have young; germinated seed can be given but care must be taken to see that
it is perfectly fresh or serious infections can result. As always, water must
be kept fresh and cuttlefish bone available at all times.
SEXING: In most strains of Barraband's the grey cast over hens' faces has
a bluish or slate tinge, but in some breeding stocks young hens have a faint
wash of brown. By autumn the eyes become lighter in both sexes, but the irises
of young cocks are paler and - by this time - tending towards yellow, and
their upper mandibles are becoming more pink. Red flecks and yellow dabs begin
to appear on the faces of young immature cocks as early as the winter following
the spring in which they were hatched, though may not show in some specimens
until they are almost a year old. Fledgling Barraband's can be sexed by their
appearance as long as there is a sufficient number of nest-mates to compare.
Some of the young may have a trace of red across the throat and these can
be quickly be regarded as cocks; others may have a greyish cast to the face,
forehead and throat and these are most likely to be hens. Youngsters with
a brownish tinge across the throat and a yellowish cast over the green of
the face and forehead can be reasonably assumed to be cocks.
SEXUAL MATURITY: They do not usually show serious inclination towards nesting
until in their third year.
NESTING SEASON IN BRITAIN: Nesting usual commences between April and early
June.
TYPE OF NEST: A hanging box measuring 8-9 inches square inside by 18 inches
deep, fixed from waist to head height is generally accepted.
USUAL NUMBER OF EGGS: The usual clutch of eggs varies between four and six.
INCUBATION PERIOD: Incubation is around 18 days.
USUAL NUMBER OF YOUNG: Two to four is usual.
FLEDGING AGE: Just over five weeks.
USUAL NUMBER OF CLUTCHES: Though in my experience these parrakeets are not
double brooded, a good breeding pair is likely to be the most dependable rearers
in a parrakeet specialist's collection, producing a yearly brood of young
well into their second decade. They can also be persuaded to act as foster
parents for other similar sized parrakeets and even for species larger than
themselves.
NESTING HABITS: Though it is recommended that they be kept one breeding pair
to a flight, it is possible to keep a group together as the cocks are quite
amicable to each other. However, successful nesting is far less likely as
all the cocks will chase around after any hen which leaves the nest, and this
means that successful mating is less likely. As a general rule, they are the
most placid of neighbours and for this reason are ideal to place alongside
pairs of more quarrelsome Australians such as Rosellas or Red-rumps.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: On average, birds of this genus are more susceptible
to partial paralysis of the legs and eye infection as a legacy of serious
illness than -for example - Rosellas (Platycercus). But if the management
is correct and the initial stock is strong, illnesses should be rare.
NOISE FACTOR: They have cheerful chirruping calls, but this should not worry
any reasonable neighbours.
COLOUR VARIETIES: As far as is known, none so far - but both a Blue and a
Lutino variety would be exceptionally beautiful.
The Derbyan Parrakeet
SPECIES:The Derbyan Parrakeet (Psittacula derbyana)
ORIGINAL HOMELAND: An area set between the south-eastern fringe of the Himalayas
in Tibet and the mountains of Szechwan and Yunnan in western China, which
includes north-eastern Assam (India's most easterly province).
NATURAL HABITAT: Valleys and mountain sides clothed in oak and pine forests.
STATUS IN THE WILD: Unknown, due to its remote habitat.
STATUS IN AVICULTURE: Reasonably well established, but lack of interest on
the part of present day aviculturists could bring about a decline and a return
to being an extreme avicultural rarity.
LEVEL OF KEEPER'S EXPERIENCE: Intermediate; experience with commoner large
parrakeets is required.
HARDINESS: The hardiest of parrakeets, and unlike other Asiatics, not prone
to frost bite.
TYPE OF ACCOMMODATION: Enclosed shelter not required, a flight of l5ft to
20ft is advised; 16g minimum gauge of welded mesh, and metal frame to flight,
or all woodwork entirely covered with metal sheet.
TYPE OF DIET: Seeds and grains; sunflower, safflower, mixed canary, mixed
millet, maize, wheat, etc; a daily mixed portion of fruit and vegetable, apple,
orange, grapes, berries, corn-on-the-cob, peas, celery, cabbage, carrot, cabbage,
chickweed and other wild food as available. Wholemeal bread and milk, and
germinated seed should be given during the breeding season; a lot of cuttlefish
is eaten (or wasted) and should always be available.
SEXING: Adult cocks have waxy red upper mandibles, black in hens; adult hens
have a greyish mauve or pinkish mauve stripe behind the ear.
SEXUAL MATURITY: Though unlikely to breed before three to four years old,
youngsters can often be sexed at a year old or even younger. The first indications
are seen in flecks of adult colouration behind the ear, with the hens' contrasting
pale ear stripe being conspicuous and conclusive; the change from black to
red on the upper mandibles of young cocks begins to show in the next summer
following the year they were hatched.
NESTING SEASON IN BRITAIN: Nesting commences from April to as late as June.
TYPE OF NEST: Suitable nests measure l0in square by 18in to 24in deep; made
of 1inch thick exterior plywood and reinforced at strategic points with metal
to save frequent repair. Initial filler of crumbled rooted wood and soft sieved
sand, with offcuts of wood placed inside which the hen will quickly reduce
to nest litter.
USUAL NUMBER OF EGGS: 3.
INCUBATION PERIOD: 23 days.
USUAL NUMBER OF YOUNG: 2, often a full clutch of 3.
FLEDGING AGE: Seven and a half weeks.
USUAL NUMBER OF CLUTCHES: One, but if the first fails it is possible for them
to try a second time.
NESTING HABITS: Only the hen incubates and feeds the hatchlings, she calls
to the cock to be fed at the nest hole.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: Exceptionally destructive nature must be catered for;
and also, the aviary should be in an area part shaded from the summer sun
as they are uncomfortable in excessively hot weather.
NOISE FACTOR: Noisy but not unpleasant calls.
AVAILABILITY: Available occasionally.
COLOUR VARIETIES: None known at present.
1998 © J. & P. HAYWARD, CARTERTON BREEDING AVIARIES, BRIZE NORTON
RD, CARTERTON, OXON. OX18 3HW, UK
TEL: 01993 841736
IN SUPPORT OF COLOUR VARIETIES
I have warned for many years about the danger that lies in the confusion between mutants and hybrids - especially where novice bird keepers are concerned. It is true that the detrimental effect of indiscriminate cross-breeding can be seen in Grass Parrakeets, the larger Broadtails, Lovebirds, Lories and even Cockatoos and Macaws. The hybrids between the Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao) and the Blue and Gold Macaw (Ara ararauna) are even given the false status of a true species by being named Catalina Macaws - which is misleading and irresponsible. Even so, it can be contemplated that hybridization has taken its part in evolution in our natural world.
It is often forgotten that true mutation is not unnatural. One of the forces which drive evolution to create diversity throughout nature can be seen in various groups of South American parrots, notably the sub-species of the Yellow-fronted Amazon (Amazona ochrocephala) which develop an increasing propensity towards 'piedness' or variegation as they spread through the narrow isthmus of Central America and spill into the southern part of Mexico, finally culminating in the island-living 'Tres Marie' Amazon (A.o.tresmariae), the subspecies which shows the most marked tendency towards variegation.
In aviculture, because it causes no adulteration when paired to one of its own kind, a mutant example which has occurred within its own species does not present the dangers of the hybrid. It is important to realise that these mutants are not created by hybridization between various related species - an idea grasped mistakenly by beginners as well as more experienced breeders - but have initially come about as aberrations or 'sports' within a true species. Attempts in the past to introduce a colour variety from one species into another have resulted in unwanted hybrids which could ultimately prove detrimental to the survival within aviculture of the species concerned. Beginners especially must beware purchasing such hybrids and it is right to warn them of the harmful consequences of widespread hybridization.
As far as I can see, the establishment of non-hybrid colour varieties can only do good for a species by ensuring its popularity and continued breeding by aviculturists. As an example we can look at the Peach-faced Lovebird which is popular and widely bred all over the world as a direct result of the occurrence of mutant varieties. When I began breeding Peach-faceds, wild caught birds were still being imported, nowadays they are so numerous that it is unthinkable that they would ever again need to be brought in from their natural habitat in Africa. The same goes for a great many more species, including Indian Ringneck Parrakeets, Masked Lovebirds, Cockatiels, Red-rumpeds, Splendids, Turquoisines, and - most recently - Lineolated Parrakeets.
Some breeders are against colour mutations. I am all for them and am pleased when I see them being established within aviary bred strains; not just because colour varieties enrich aviculture and increase popularity in a species, but also because they mean that the strains are becoming more and more domesticated; this confirms and consolidates their belonging and retention within the sphere of the bird breeder. Considering the long term pressure against aviculture from anti-bird keeping factions, I believe this aspect to be most important.
Whether retaining sub-species or increasing the number of colour forms within a species, as far as I am concerned, variety in the birds we keep truly is the spice of life. In fact many breeders are attracted to avicultural species solely because of their interest in producing colour varieties - and why not? But if their efforts are to be increasingly criticised and denigrated such breeders may become discouraged and finally drop out of bird keeping altogether, in which case aviculture would be the loser, become further weakened and made even more vulnerable from aggressive and powerful opponents as a result.
It is unfair to present the enthusiastic, traditional and legitimate efforts of fellow bird keepers who breed pure bred colour varieties - as well as normals - as harmful to the survival of the wild type. When I think of conservation within aviculture, my own emphasis is very much on the central word 'WITHIN' and, as far as I am concerned, this includes the conservation and retention of not just species and sub-species within aviculture world wide, but also of old and modern varieties, whether in psittacine birds, budgerigars, canaries, finches, poultry, waterfowl or other groups of species.
Colour varieties should be regarded as additional to their particular species and not as intended to supplant the original wild type, which should be maintained at a corresponding level of development. The wild type and the colour mutant provide attractive foils for each other; it must not be forgotten that completely pure bred wild type specimens which carry no hidden factors for mutated colour are invaluable to colour breeders in various ways, including helping establish rare new mutations. Therefore, many specialist colour breeders wisely keep a breeding stock of good quality normal type birds, if only for this purpose.
Colour mutants, or varieties, have always been of particular interest and given great pleasure to many aviculturists, but recently there has been increased question amongst some bird keepers over the possibility of these varieties swamping out the natural wild forms. I do not believe this danger exists. It is forgotten that many years of painstaking work goes into the establishing of these psittacine colour mutants - they have to be cultivated. There are very few Dominant mutations of psittacines and even these are lessened in their effect when paired to visually normal birds; continuance of this practice would see them eventually disappear. If left to their own devices, and not paired selectively, colour variants must - over many generations - revert to the wild type. First the recessive forms would be swamped, then the sex-linkeds and finally the dominants. In the wild, the forces of nature bring about a reversion to wild forms even more quickly. In aviculture a surfeit of certain dominant varieties can be easily rectified by avoiding the inclusion of specimens of the variety in a breeding programme - their very nature makes sure that differences are visual, at least to some degree (i.e. normal birds cannot be split for a Dominant variety).
Though as rare as the eruption of a new primary variety, examples are known where a pair of mutant specimens of the same genetic type and variety have produced - against all known rules of genetic theory - 'throwbacks' to the original wild type. Quite possibly, many of these 'throwbacks' happen without ever being recorded, but what seems to be an example of this phenomenon was reported in the avicultural press by a breeder of Indian Ringnecks. A pair of birds of the BLUE series (i.e. of pure white ground colour) unexpectedly produced a youngster of the GREEN series which possessed the full complement of yellow ground colour, such as would be found in a specimen of the wild type - a complete impossibility as far as genetic theory goes, but not where the forces of nature are concerned. After all, it should have been impossible for a pair of GREEN Ringnecks to have produced the first BLUE specimen, but a mutation which caused the gene controlling the production of yellow pigment to be 'switched of' did happen, and so it is just as feasible that nature would be able cause a mutation which can 'switch back on' the production of yellow pigment in future generations. Finally, a method of reconstituting the normal wild type bird from colour varieties is outlined within the pages of my book: 'The Manual of Colour Breeding'. © Jim Hayward 1998
LINEOLATED PARAKEETS
Both beginners and experienced birdkeepers will get great satisfaction from
keeping these delightful little birds that hail from South and Central America.
Approximately 6" long, these miniature green parakeets are ideal for
keeping as pairs in cages and small colonies in aviaries. Aviaries should
be shaded rather than receive full sun. Lineolated are best kept with their
own kind as they will rarely defend themselves against other birds. They are
hardy, but should always have a dry and draftproof housing to which they can
retire. Birds kept in cages within a birdroom benefit from having an open
fronted box in which they can roost at night. No bedding should be included
in the box.
Colour: The wild Lineolated or Barred Parakeet is light green with black marking
at various points around the body but mainly over the upper parts of the bird..
It is these black marks that assist us to determine the sex of a bird. In
males the black shoulder markings are usually heavier and the two central
tail feathers are usually black for most if not all of their length. Unlike
the tail feathers of hens who have little or no black on them. The introduction
of mutations has made the following colours readily available. Greens: Light,
Dark and Olive. Blues: Light, Cobalt and Mauve. Lutino: This is the albinised
form of green, and is a brilliant yellow with red eyes. It is also sex linked.
Cremino: This is the albinised form of blue, and as the name suggests is a
cream colour rather than a pure white albino. It also has red eyes and is
sex linked. Other colours have been bred but are not readily available at
this time.
Feeding: These birds will eat a great variety of seeds including canary millet,
niger, hemp, buckwheat, linseed and groats. They also enjoy apple, carrot,
sprouted mung beans and corn, on or off the cob. Together with egg biscuit
both corn and mung beans are most beneficial when raising youngsters.
Breeding: Like so many parrots that are not sexually dimorphic it is essential
that a true pair is established before setting up in cage or aviary for breeding.
This is not quite so important if you intend to breed on a colony system where
birds will choose their own partners. In order to settle down a colony as
quickly as possible it helps if all birds can be introduced to the aviary
at the same time. Nest boxes should all be at the same height and of similar
design. Horizontal style 9"x 6"x 6" with a side entrance hole
approx. 40 - 45 mm dia. Entrance perches should not be provided.There should
also be approximately 3 times as many boxes as there are pairs of birds in
the colony. Some breeders include only a good layer of small wood chippings
(about 2" deep) in the box but I prefer to add coconut fibre (approx
half a bundle) laid loosely in the box. Both birds will quickly turn the fibre
into a cocoon-like nest, sometimes having a tunnel-like entrance to it. (Not
always helpful when trying to inspect the contents). When setting up boxes
it is worth taking trouble to spray inside the box, complete with nest material,
with an anti-mite spray.
Eggs are laid on alternate days and on average number from 4 - 6. Young hatch
between 18 - 20 days and fledge at around 5 weeks. Birds should be rung with
size M rings. Additionally, colour coded split rings are recommended for easier
control of pedigrees. Young are capable of feeding themselves almost as soon
as they leave the nest box but parents top them up for at least 3 weeks after
that time. This is the time to take a youngster as a pet if you so wish. They
will usually eat from your hand after only a few days.
Lineolated are capable of breeding as early as 6 months, and if it is intended
to breed colour mutations then young should be separated from parents and
opposite sex siblings before any unwanted bonding takes place. With a life
span of approximately 10 years and capable of breeding at only six months,
although I prefer to wait until they are a year old. It is possible to undertake
some interesting breeding programs with these birds without spending huge
amounts of money for the rarer colours. i.e. Breed your own colours from basic
mutation pairings. Perhaps we can investigate this in a later article.
Another point in their favour is that they are unlikely to cause problems
with your neighbours.
©Ron Lewis 1998. Help & advice on lineolated: email ronlewis@btinternet.com